Any Questions? Landscaping, Hard surfaces, Garden Features

Q. I would like to know how or what are the basic rules to fitting a slatted fence around my garden. I would like to use six foot high slats which are thick at one side and thin at other. where do I place the nails and basic stuff like that. Also how do I go about building a gate, do you know of any books I can read.

A. Try this link; www.diydata.com/projects/wooden fence/fencepanel.htm that should give you the information you need. As for building a gate, I don't know of any book that specifically covers this, you probably need a woodworking projects book from the library. However, unless you're a good carpenter, I'd leave it to some-one who's done it before! Fencing companies will often build gates to specific sizes and requirements, so try a local company.

Q. I have a 1m x 3m x 0.75m trench at the bottom of my heavy clay garden that I want to fill to make into a raised bed (to help with the drainage). I'm going to have to buy soil/compost to fill the hole so do you have any suggestions as to the recipe and quantities I should use?

A. It depends partly on what soil or compost is available and in what quantities, also on what will be planted in the bed. If you have heavy clay soil, then there is a chance that soil that is available locally and sold as top soil may also have quite a high clay content, so try to make sure top soil that you buy is a good quality loamy soil. Ideally, I would add top soil and good well rotted garden compost in the ratio of about 4 + 1.

Ironically raised beds need something in them to retain moisture, the idea being that there is plenty available but allowing excess to drain freely away. Organic matter fulfils this role while also adding nutrients. If garden compost in large quantities is not available, then use well rotted farmyard manure instead.

The organic matter will rot away in time and so the level of the bed will fall (slowly), just add more to the top as a mulch every now and then - annually say. Once the bed is in place and filled, you shouldn't need to dig it ever again.

This recipe is a general one assuming that vegetables or ornamentals are to be planted. If you are to use it for alpines, then add coarse sand or fine gravel to the mix, if acid - loving plants, then use peat as the organic matter or fill the bed with an ericaceous compost

addendum Q. Do you think I should put some bricks/gravel etc in the bottom of the trench to help with drainage?

addendum A. As I understand it, you have a trench that you intend to fill and then extend above ground level using a retaining wall of some description. I wouldn't add any extra drainage unless you intend to fill it with plants that particularly require it, alpines / Mediterranean plants etc. There is the danger in a heavy waterlogged soil that such a move could actually give you an underground sump as the water from the surrounding soil drains into the gravel / brick area. For the vast majority of purposes, being above ground level will supply the extra drainage required.

Q. How do I calculate a template to ensure the corners for my shed base are , the size of the base is 14ft X 10 ft

A. You could buy a "builders square" or "framing square" a large set square with arms about 18-24" long or alternatively make yourself a triangle with sides in the ratio 3:4:5 and you'll get a perfect right angle. Wood is the best material and can be whatever is to hand, just knock a nail or screw through the joints. The bigger the pieces the more accurate it is i.e. 3,4 and 5ft work better than 30, 40 and 50cm.

You can check if you have it right by measuring the diagonals, if they are identical, then you have four right angles, if not, then start again!

Mark out the base of the shed with pegs and string first before you start to dig it out and prepare the  foundations.

Q. We have a back garden that measures 40' deep and 60' wide, which is on a slope that goes from the back of the house upwards in one corner more than the other, by about 5' at it's highest point. We have been considering retailing walls to make a number of flat levels. However, I was wondering whether decking would be a possible option. The reason that I ask is that everywhere I look decking is displayed as an ideal solution to gardens that go downwards rather than upwards.

Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

A. The brief answer to your question is that there is no reason that decking couldn't provide you with a level area with a garden that slopes upwards.

You just need to be a bit more careful about where the deck will be and its position particularly in relation to what surrounds the garden.

Decking is recommended for downwards sloping gardens as the level of the deck is usually the same as the house level with the far end of the deck being elevated relative to the surrounding ground. With an upward sloping garden the whole deck is going to be at a higher level than the house and also possibly than the fence / hedge. Decks are ideal for sloping sites as they can be supported on posts without needing to level the area. You need to think carefully about how an elevated deck will fit into your garden. If the answer is "no so well" and you need to dig in and place a retaining wall, I'd go for a patio as there wouldn't be such problems with drainage and you would lose all of the cost savings in leveling the site anyway.

I visited a similar garden locally recently where the owners were considering an elevated deck until I pointed out that if they had a table on the deck, it would be 6" above the level of their 6ft fence and they'd be sat up there looking down on their neighbors patio! Your situation may not be so extreme, but it requires careful thought and measuring out of sizes and levels.

Q. I would like to lay a patio. I already have a crazy paving effort which I hate and would like to lay slabs. Is there any way I could do this without having to lift the existing crazy paving?

A. In principle there is nothing to stop you from doing this, just lay the new slabs onto a mortar bed (or each slab onto 5 large blobs of mortar) on top of the crazy paving. In practice though, this will give you a patio 3-4 inches higher than the one that you already have which I imagine will be impractical, look rather strange or both. To get a patio at the same level as current, you'll need to dig up the crazy paving, the good news is that there should be a good compacted hardcore base down there already which will save you a lot of work. You may need to re-compact the hardcore base as it will probably be upset when removing the existing slabs.

Q. Can I go over my patio with hardwood flooring and what would it take to do so?

A. If you mean hardwood flooring as sold for interiors, then no-way. Outside it would warp, curl and split. You could possibly use decking boards, but they would need to be fixed to batterns. I'd use 2" x 4" wide-side on to the patio and fixed at intervals to the patio with frame fixings before attaching the decking boards. This would result in the deck being about 3" higher than the patio which would possibly be impractical and/or very strange looking.

Q. I have a 6m by 4m area which I want to cover with gravel, before putting decking, tubs etc. on it, but although I have found some local gravel suppliers, I can't find anything to help me calculate how much I need.

A. It depends on whether the area is trafficked or not i.e. walked on. If you work on the basis of 1 tonne per 10 square metres, this will give you a good covering. Bear in mind that it will add depth to the area and so the area will need to be dug out relative to the surroundings or a barrier will need to be put in place to stop the gravel from spilling.

You could use log roll, (though I'm not keen on it), or rough fencing posts laid horizontal with the pointed end cut off. Make sure you peg them in place securely if you go for either of these with substantial wooden pegs driven at least 6" into the ground, I use pegs 12" long in total for this. Drill (3mm diameter) the top of the peg to take the nail, it is very likely to split being so close to the edge of the wood otherwise.

If you are going to cover it with decking, I'd use landscaping fabric with just a scattering of gravel to stop the wind from lifting it. You could get away with half this amount or less if it is all to be covered.

Q. I have a pre-walled area, 9ft wide, decreasing to 8ft 6". Total length 11ft 8". I have purchased riven paving slabs, 2ft x 2ft. What is the best way to lay the slabs with regard to the decreasing width?

A. You have a choice:

1/ Cut the slabs by hiring a machine to do the job. A hard, tremendously noisy and laborious process, but necessary if you want an edge-to-edge finish.

2/ After laying and compacting the hardcore lay the slabs without cutting any. This will leave little triangles along the edges which can be used as planting pockets - dig the pocket of hardcore out first after the mortar for the slabs have set. Otherwise the triangles can be filled to level with the slabs with gravel or other decorative stone - by far the easiest option and good looking too.

Q. I need 20 sleepers to make raised beds- can you give me a price- I live in Huddersfield

A. Railway sleepers are big heavy things and so transport is a major cost. Like sand, gravel etc. they are best sourced locally - try the local sand / gravel bulk materials merchant in the yellow pages, if they can't help, they'll probably be able to suggest a local supplier who can. Expect to pay from £20 each.

Alternatively, you can now buy railways sleepers online

Q. I have a sloping oblong garden, I have recently excavated an L shape to form a raised garden in one L and a patio in the other "L". I need to retain the higher level but want to do it as cheaply as possible. can I do this with planks and posts? the retaining partition will be Z shaped (dividing two "L" shapes) how is the best way to do this?

A. It depends on how deep the partition is and how long it is. Railway sleepers are a good way of doing this. They need to be bedded well, on a foundation of compacted hardcore or shingle if possible. I'd ensure that they remained upright with posts hammered into the ground and screwed to the sleepers with long screws. These can be hidden from sight and buried. Make sure you use tannalised timber for the posts you knock in. Sleepers are difficult to cut if you need to trim them, requiring a chain saw - even then it is an effort.

A more convenient alternative is to use 2" thick tannalised timber available in 4" or 6" widths. This is easier to cut than sleepers, but not so substantial. It can be painted or stained afterwards to blend in or provide a contrast.

As another alternative you could use rough fencing posts laid on end with the points cut off, in fact if you have a fencing supplier nearby a wander around the wood yard may give a few ideas of types of timber you could use for the more rustic look.

All of this assumes that there is no more than 12" / 30cm of soil to be retained, if it is greater than this, you really need a good foundation and substantial upright supports.

Q. How do I lay a base for a small garden shed I have just bought?

A. Follow the instructions for laying a patio if you want the best foundation. Just lay slabs on soil if a simple basic base will do for a small storage shed. The main thing is to keep the wood dry and off the soil.

 Patios     Decks