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		Fast Growing Trees Fastest 
		Deciduous | 
| Faster 
		Deciduous | 
| Fast 
		Deciduous 
		Evergreen | 
| 
		Fast Growing 
		Hedging Plants 
		Deciduous 
		Evergreen 
		Arborvitae 
		Douglas Fir | 
| Spring Flowering Bulbs and Winter Flowering Shrubs | 
| More about Fruit Trees: Apple and Crab-apples | Apricot | Cherry | Peaches and Nectarines | Pear | Plums and prunes | Pests and problems | Hints and tips | 
| Three of the best Daffodils - more Daffodils | ||
| 
			 |  King 
			Alfred Large yellow trumpet, good for naturalizing in grass |  Daffodil 
			Collection, Colorful Cupful Ice white petals, pink or lemon trumpets | 
| Three of the best Tulips - more Tulips | ||
|  Tulip 
			sampler collection 53 bulbs, 8 varieties |  Tulip, 
			White Emperor plant in a large shallow container - at least 8-10 bulbs for an extravagant and elegant spring treat |  Tulip, 
			Rembrandt Bright blooms streaked, striped, and splashed with contrasting colors. | 
| Three of the best Hyacinths - more Hyacinths | ||
|  Hyacinth, 
			Large Exhibition-Size Forget anything you've ever smelled from a bottle, these are the real deal |  Hyacinth, 
			Blue Ice single color groups are ideal for containers, flowering at the same time |  Hyacinth, 
			City of Haarlem pale yellow, that's Haarlem BTW - in Holland! | 
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 | 
 One of the secrets of having a 
garden that others envy is by planning things well in advance, by the time you 
admire something in the garden centre, it's often about 6 months too late to 
do anything about it for this year in your own garden. Bulb catalogues start to 
come out in August and the garden centres fill up with bulbs too, so start planning 
now for next spring and also for scent in the garden this winter.
One of the secrets of having a 
garden that others envy is by planning things well in advance, by the time you 
admire something in the garden centre, it's often about 6 months too late to 
do anything about it for this year in your own garden. Bulb catalogues start to 
come out in August and the garden centres fill up with bulbs too, so start planning 
now for next spring and also for scent in the garden this winter.
 If you start before about the middle 
of September (but the sooner the better), you can have Spring Flowering Bulbs 
for the house in flower at or just after Christmas. If you can get them 
planted now, then they will have a chance to start growing before it begins to get 
very cold which will help them to flower all the earlier, they'll certainly 
be up early in the new year and long before the outdoor ones have woken up.
  
If you start before about the middle 
of September (but the sooner the better), you can have Spring Flowering Bulbs 
for the house in flower at or just after Christmas. If you can get them 
planted now, then they will have a chance to start growing before it begins to get 
very cold which will help them to flower all the earlier, they'll certainly 
be up early in the new year and long before the outdoor ones have woken up.

By all means try something out of the ordinary, but in the main stick to the old favourites, after all it's no accident that they are favourites. I've tried all manner of unusual things in the past, some of which have been reasonable, but many have flowered late, poorly or not at all. In particular, they are better outdoors, but don't all take quite so kindly to being indoors in pots.
In general think about scale when planting spring flowering bulbs. Apart from the odd warm sunny day that may tempt you out into the garden, you are going to appreciate your bulbs from a distance and either in the front garden or through a window at the back. So plant larger flowered varieties particularly if they're far away, always plant in clumps at any distance (one bulb usually gives one flower) and plant small flowered or dwarf varieties near to the house or in pots.
| Hyacinths 
			 Before you plant them up, unless they are "prepared" they will need to be convinced that winter has been and gone. Place them in a dark place (a brown paper bag is good) somewhere in the refrigerator (not the freezer!) for at least two weeks, then take them out in mid to late September and plant them up in bowls. Plant 3 or 4 of one color per bowl. The bulbs should be almost touching with a small gap between them so they actually aren't. Don't be tempted to mix different varieties as the chances are they won't flower all at the same time. I tend to go for the blues and whites, which as well as being my favourite flower colors, are reliable. After planting put them somewhere sheltered and dark in the garage/ shed or wherever, keep them cool and take a peek every now and then to make sure they're growing. Once they're about 3 inches tall, they can be brought into the house and kept somewhere cool, 50-60F. If your timing is right you'll have your very own home grown hyacinths for Christmas! If you get it a bit wrong, don't worry, they'll still flower in the depths of winter and you get the wonderful scent. Outdoor hyacinths 
			are best planted near to the house where you will see them and smell 
			them, even the large varieties are very close to the ground. Alternatively 
			I plant them out of the way but near a path, there's a large patch 
			now at the bottom of the garden near the compost heap, (no, not to get 
			rid of the smell), but for cutting and bringing into the house. I can't 
			ever remember buying a hyacinth bulb and planting it into the soil directly, 
			all of ours are ex-container grown ones that spent their first year 
			in the house. | 
| Tulips 
			 Best planted in groups of one variety, this applies to all bulbs, but more so for tulips than any of the others, why anyone should buy a bag of "mixed varieties and colors" is beyond me. Take care if you have yellow tulips and daffodils, they can get rather mixed up when flowering together. Of the other colors, traditional large reds are very robust and will grow in most places, but the finest to my eye at least are the white and pink lily-flowered varieties. These have rather taller thinner flowers than most tulips with a slightly out-turned tip to each petal. Grown in containers for the house tulips are an extravagance as you need a large container and the flowers are rather short lived if you bring them into the warmth. I'd never be without a couple of large bowls of my favourites though, bring them indoors in the day and place them outside somewhere sheltered in the evening. If you have a cool (non-heated) conservatory, all the better. The shops and markets in spring will be full of freshly cut tulips of the common shapes and shades, so go for something a little out of the ordinary. Smaller species tulips are becoming more commonly available, they don't seem to do so well indoors but are ideal for a large outdoor container, just outside the front door is one of the best places to appreciate them as often as possible. | 
| Daffodils and Narcissi 
			 Bear in mind though if you're tempted to go for one of those giant sacks of bulbs that it's actually quite a task to plant them at the correct depth (the top of the bulb should be about twice it's height below the surface of the soil) and that they should be planted as soon as possible after buying them. To plant in grass, cut a large X with a spade, this will give you four 2-sided triangles (you'll see what I mean when you do it!) peel back the sod of each of these triangles (you won't actually be able to "peel" - you'll need to force the spade a couple of inches under the turf to loosen it first). You then have a square of soil to plant your bulbs in. I strongly suggest that you have a large sheet of something standing by to put the soil on that you dig out (with a spade - trowels encourage small shallow holes - spades encourage larger). Plant your bulbs, replace the soil, fold the sod back over and tread it down gently. You could use one of those bulb planters that looks like a bottomless tin-can with a handle - depends whether or not you think you've enough junk in the shed. The shorter multi-headed varieties look better up close than at a distance and so are better placed in containers around the house or in pots to bring into the house, these do better indoors in pots and again the shops will be full of cheap cut flowers of the larger varieties. | 
Planting in containers
The key point to remember is that these are temporary plantings, so you can plant the bulbs very close together, almost touching, for the maximum density of flowers. Buy the largest bulbs you can afford, smaller ones just don't perform as well and the smallest may produce lots of leaves but no flowers at all. After flowering plant them in the garden as soon as you can, they won't perform as well next year, you need to start with large bought ones again.
Bulb fibre is often recommended, 
but is only really necessary if the bulbs are to be planted in bowls without drainage.
I've always treated bulbs like any other container plants and use ordinary 
potting compost in containers that have drainage holes and get excellent results.
| 
			 Many plants outdoors will continue to grow until the frosts start in October or maybe even November (it seems to get later every year), so you can plant shrubs now to get them established and ready to perform as soon as the alarm clock rings next spring. It's well worth putting a winter flowering shrub in now to appreciate it's efforts when much of the fruits of your gardening efforts are still distant hopes. To get much flower the first year, they need to be fairly biggish specimens already. Plant them near to the door or along well used paths, You're going to be less inclined to traipse down to the bottom of a wet and largely dormant garden to smell one particular bush, however tempting it may be. | 
|  Viburnum 
			bodnantense "Dawn" - Fragrant rose-tinted flowers 
			borne on bare wood from late autumn to early spring. Eventually to 10ft 
			tall by 6ft wide. Not too fussy about soil. If you only have one winter 
			flowering shrub, have this one. | 
|  Chimonanthus  praecox - Winter Sweet.
			Similar in size, and habit to the Viburnum 
			above, but with yellow flowers not as long lasting. | 
|  Hamemelis - witch hazel. Large 
			deciduous shrub with fragrant frost-resistant spidery flowers in winter 
			that are yellow or shades of orange depending on variety. Produces brilliant 
			golden yellow autumn foliage as well, which looks good if underplanted 
			with purple autumn crocuses, Colchicum speciosum (only available 
			in late summer and need to planted immediately). Best in full sun, not 
			keen on an exposed site. To 12ft high and wide, 5ft high and wide for
			Hamemelis x intermedia pallida. | 
|  Mahonia. 
			Evergreens with holly-like leaves and a very "architectural" 
			habit. Fragrant yellow flowers in large quantities once the plant gets 
			going. Ultimately to 10ft x 10ft but takes ages to get there and easily 
			contained to lesser sizes. Recommended M. aquifolium "Apollo" 
			- Oregon Grape, shade tolerant. M. x media "charity", 
			not quite as hardy or shade tolerant, but a more gracious plant. A strong 
			rival to Viburnum "Dawn" above with the evergreen advantage. | 
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